Introduced during the 1970s, the original Root Beer stood apart from every other GMT-Master. While the "Pepsi" and later "Coke" embraced bold, high-contrast color schemes, the Root Beer paired brown tones with yellow gold, creating a warmer, more luxurious interpretation of Rolex's professional travel watch.

Today's Root Beer looks very different.

Modern references replace yellow gold with Rolex's proprietary Everose gold, swap aluminum for ceramic, and exchange the vintage brown dial for glossy black. Mechanically, they're vastly superior. Visually, they're unmistakably contemporary.

The question collectors continue to debate is whether those improvements refined the Root Beer—or fundamentally changed what made it special.

The Original Root Beer Was Unlike Anything Else in the Rolex Catalog

Vintage Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 1675/3 and Ref. 16753 showing naturally aged brown-and-gold aluminum bezels.

When Rolex introduced the GMT-Master Ref. 1675/3 around 1970, it represented a significant departure from the brand's established sports-watch formula.

More importantly, it introduced many collectors to Rolesor—Rolex's combination of stainless steel and 18k yellow gold—within the GMT-Master family.

The metals alone made the watch distinctive, but the dial and bezel completed its identity.

Instead of blue and red, Rolex chose a brown-and-gold aluminum bezel paired with a rich brown sunburst dial. Early examples featured raised gold hour markers, commonly known among collectors as the "nipple dial." Although informal, the nickname has become standard terminology within vintage Rolex collecting.

The overall effect was unusually warm for a professional sports watch.

While the GMT-Master remained a practical tool for international travel, the Root Beer introduced a level of elegance that distinguished it from its steel counterparts.

Over time, another characteristic became central to its appeal.

Because the bezel insert was made from anodized aluminum, years of sunlight and daily wear gradually altered its appearance. Browns softened, gold accents mellowed, and every watch developed its own unique patina.

That natural aging is now one of the defining attractions of vintage Root Beer references.

Celebrity Associations Helped Define the Watch's Image

The Root Beer never achieved the universal recognition of the Pepsi GMT-Master, but it developed a devoted following among collectors and enthusiasts.

One of its most frequently cited wearers is Clint Eastwood, whose preference for the model helped reinforce its association with understated confidence rather than overt luxury.

Unlike many celebrity-watch pairings driven by sponsorship, the Root Beer became part of Eastwood's personal style, contributing to its enduring appeal among collectors.

While celebrity ownership alone doesn't determine collectability, these associations often become part of a reference's historical narrative.

The Modern Root Beer Is a Different Interpretation

Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126711CHNR in Everose Rolesor.

After the final aluminum-bezel Root Beer references left production during the 2000s, Rolex abandoned the brown color scheme for more than a decade.

Its return in 2018 surprised many collectors.

Rather than recreating the vintage formula, Rolex reimagined it.

The GMT-Master II Ref. 126711CHNR introduced several fundamental changes:

• Everose gold replaced yellow gold.
• A black lacquer dial replaced the brown sunburst dial.
• The aluminum bezel gave way to a brown-and-black Cerachrom ceramic insert.
• The case adopted the proportions of the modern GMT-Master II generation.

These weren't subtle updates.

They transformed the personality of the watch.

The vintage Root Beer feels unmistakably rooted in the 1970s, with warm colors and softer lines. The modern version feels sharper, darker, and considerably more architectural.

Some collectors embraced the redesign immediately. Others questioned whether a black-dial GMT with rose gold still captured the spirit of the original Root Beer.

Rolex itself has never officially used the "Root Beer" nickname, leaving that debate entirely within the collecting community.

Aluminum vs. Ceramic: Two Different Philosophies

Perhaps no single component illustrates the difference between vintage and modern Rolex better than the bezel.

Vintage Aluminum

Aluminum develops visible character over time.

Small scratches, fading, and UV exposure gradually change its appearance, giving every watch an individual personality.

Collectors often describe these changes as part of the ownership experience rather than flaws to be avoided.

No factory can reproduce decades of genuine wear.

Modern Cerachrom

Cerachrom takes the opposite approach.

Rolex engineered its ceramic bezel to resist scratching, fading, and corrosion, allowing the watch to retain its original appearance for decades under normal use.

From an engineering perspective, ceramic is unquestionably superior.

From an emotional perspective, opinions differ.

Some collectors appreciate the permanence and precision of Cerachrom, while others miss the individuality that aluminum develops naturally.

Neither preference is objectively correct—they simply reflect different priorities.

Wearing Experience Has Changed Just as Much

The bracelets reveal how dramatically Rolex's engineering has evolved.

Vintage Oyster bracelets use hollow center links and stamped components, making them surprisingly light on the wrist.

After decades of wear, many develop noticeable stretch—not because the links themselves elongate, but because the pins and sleeves gradually wear.

Modern bracelets feel completely different.

Solid links, improved clasps, tighter tolerances, and replica Rolex's Easylink extension system create a much more substantial impression.

The difference is immediately apparent when handling both generations side by side.

Collectors who enjoy vintage watches often appreciate the lighter feel of earlier bracelets.

Those seeking maximum solidity generally prefer the modern design.

Again, neither is inherently superior—it depends on what the wearer values most.

The Movement Tells the Story of Rolex's Progress

Mechanically, the modern Root Beer enjoys a clear advantage.

Vintage references such as the 1675/3 and 16753 use earlier generations of Rolex GMT movements that remain highly respected for their durability but lack many conveniences expected today.

Current references are powered by the Calibre 3285, which incorporates several important advancements:

• Approximately 70 hours of power reserve.
• Chronergy escapement for improved energy efficiency.
• Parachrom hairspring for greater resistance to shocks and magnetic fields.
• Independently adjustable local hour hand for easier travel across time zones.

These improvements aren't merely incremental.

They reflect decades of refinement in reliability, efficiency, and everyday usability.

For buyers intending to wear the watch frequently while traveling, the modern movement offers meaningful practical benefits.

The Full Everose Gold Model Represents the Modern Collection at Its Most Luxurious

Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126715CHNR in solid 18k Everose gold.

While the two-tone Ref. 126711CHNR attracts most attention, the full Everose gold 126715CHNR demonstrates the modern Root Beer's concept without compromise.

Everything that distinguishes the current generation is amplified:

• Solid 18k Everose construction.
• Brown-and-black Cerachrom bezel.
• Glossy black dial.
• Calibre 3285 movement.
• Contemporary Oyster bracelet.

Rather than evoking the relaxed warmth of the original Root Beer, the full-gold model projects a distinctly modern sense of luxury.

It isn't attempting to recreate the 1970s.

It's demonstrating how Rolex interprets the Root Beer aesthetic in the twenty-first century.

Which Root Beer Makes More Sense Today?

The answer depends entirely on what you expect from ownership.

Choose a vintage Root Beer if you value:

• Aluminum bezels that develop unique patina.
• Yellow-gold Rolesor and brown sunburst dials.
• Slimmer case proportions.
• The character that comes with decades of natural aging.

Choose a modern Root Beer if you prioritize:

• Contemporary movement technology.
• Scratch-resistant ceramic.
• Improved bracelet construction.
• Greater durability for everyday wear.

Neither generation replaces the other.

The original Root Beer remains one of Rolex's most distinctive vintage sports watches because it captures an era when utility and warmth coexisted in an unusual way.

The modern Root Beer demonstrates how far Rolex's engineering has progressed while preserving enough visual continuity that collectors immediately recognize its heritage.

Most Rolex watches are designed to balance professional capability with everyday wearability. The Deepsea Challenge Ref. 126067 takes a completely different approach.

This isn't simply a larger Submariner or an upgraded Sea-Dweller. It's a commercial version of an experimental watch developed for one of the deepest manned dives in history, engineered to survive pressures that no recreational diver—and virtually no professional diver—will ever encounter.

Its specifications are extraordinary. The more interesting question is whether those specifications translate into a compelling watch for collectors.

The Largest Production Rolex Ever Built

Rolex Deepsea Challenge Ref. 126067 highlighting its brushed RLX Titanium case.

At 50 mm in diameter and approximately 23 mm thick, the Deepsea Challenge is the largest wristwatch Rolex has ever produced for public sale.

Those dimensions are difficult to appreciate until the watch is seen alongside a standard sports model.

A modern Submariner measures roughly 41 mm across and about 12 mm thick. The Deepsea Challenge is dramatically larger in every direction, with a domed sapphire crystal measuring approximately 9.5 mm thick on its own.

Rolex didn't choose these proportions for visual impact.

Every millimeter exists because the watch was engineered to withstand extraordinary external pressure.

Unlike oversized watches designed primarily as fashion statements, the Deepsea Challenge's dimensions are dictated by its intended performance.

A Watch Built Around an Engineering Problem

The Deepsea Challenge traces its origins to Rolex's long-standing relationship with deep-sea exploration.

Rolex introduced the waterproof Oyster case in 1926, an innovation that fundamentally changed wristwatch construction. Over the following decades, the company expanded that expertise through the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, and Deepsea collections.

The Deepsea Challenge represents the most extreme expression of that development.

Its architecture is directly inspired by the experimental watch attached to filmmaker and explorer James Cameron's 2012 Mariana Trench expedition.

That prototype wasn't intended for commercial sale.

The Ref. 126067 adapts many of the same engineering principles into a production watch while maintaining Rolex's standards for reliability, finishing, and long-term serviceability.

Water Resistance That Far Exceeds Practical Use

The headline specification is impossible to ignore.

Rolex rates the Deepsea Challenge to 11,000 meters (36,090 feet) of water resistance.

To put that into perspective:

• Recreational diving rarely exceeds 40 meters.
• Technical saturation diving operates at only a tiny fraction of the watch's rated depth.
• The deepest point of Earth's oceans, the Challenger Deep within the Mariana Trench, lies at approximately 10,900–11,000 meters.

In other words, Rolex engineered the watch to survive conditions that exist only in one of the planet's most extreme environments.

For virtually every owner, this capability will never be used.

That doesn't diminish its significance. Instead, it places the Deepsea Challenge in the same category as high-performance supercars or professional racing chronographs: objects whose engineering extends well beyond ordinary practical requirements.

Why Titanium Was Essential

Side profile showing the RLX Titanium case and helium escape valve.

A watch of this size would be difficult to wear if constructed from traditional stainless steel.

Rolex therefore chose RLX Titanium, the proprietary titanium alloy first introduced on the Yacht-Master 42 before expanding its use to the Deepsea Challenge.

Titanium offers two major advantages.

First, it provides exceptional strength while weighing significantly less than steel.

Second, it improves comfort despite the watch's enormous dimensions.

The Deepsea Challenge weighs approximately 250 grams with its bracelet—still substantial, but considerably lighter than an equivalent steel construction would have been.

That reduction makes a meaningful difference during extended wear.

RLX Titanium Isn't Just Standard Grade 5 Titanium

Many luxury brands now use Grade 5 titanium, but Rolex emphasizes that RLX Titanium undergoes proprietary processing and finishing techniques developed specifically for its manufacturing standards.

Perhaps the most noticeable result is the finish.

Titanium has historically been difficult to polish consistently while maintaining crisp transitions between brushed and polished surfaces.

The Deepsea Challenge demonstrates how far Rolex has refined those techniques.

Rather than appearing industrial or unfinished, the case retains the precise surface definition collectors expect from the brand while preserving titanium's distinctive muted grey appearance.

The aesthetic feels more technical than Oystersteel, yet still unmistakably Rolex.

The Movement Prioritizes Reliability Over Novelty

Inside the Deepsea Challenge is Rolex's Calibre 3230.

Although less discussed than the watch's case construction, the movement is one of Rolex's most dependable modern automatic calibres.

It incorporates:

• Approximately 70 hours of power reserve.
• Chronergy escapement for improved efficiency.
• Parachrom hairspring with enhanced resistance to shocks and magnetic fields.
• Superlative Chronometer certification following Rolex's in-house testing.

The movement isn't exclusive to the Deepsea Challenge, and that's intentional.

Rather than introducing an experimental calibre, Rolex paired its most technically ambitious case with a thoroughly proven movement platform.

For a professional instrument, predictability is often more valuable than novelty.

Who Should Actually Buy One?

This is where the conversation becomes more nuanced.

The Deepsea Challenge isn't a practical daily watch for most collectors.

Its size limits compatibility with many wrists, its thickness prevents it from sliding comfortably under shirt cuffs, and its weight—despite the titanium construction—remains substantial.

Those characteristics aren't flaws.

They're consequences of the watch's purpose.

The ideal owner is someone who appreciates engineering achievement as much as traditional watch design.

That might include:

• Collectors interested in Rolex's most technically ambitious references.
• Enthusiasts drawn to experimental engineering rather than historical nostalgia.
• Buyers who want a modern Rolex unlike anything else in the catalogue.

For someone seeking a versatile everyday dive watch, the Submariner or Sea-Dweller will almost certainly make more sense.

The Deepsea Challenge isn't trying to compete with either.

Is It Collectible?

Because production is relatively limited compared with mainstream Rolex sports models, the Deepsea Challenge has attracted considerable attention from collectors.

Its appeal, however, rests on more than scarcity.

The watch occupies an important place within Rolex's history.

It represents the commercial culmination of decades of research into extreme-pressure resistance and stands as the brand's most capable mechanical dive watch to date.

Whether that translates into future price appreciation remains uncertain.

Like all collectible watches, long-term values depend on factors including production numbers, collector demand, and broader market conditions.

Its historical significance, however, is unlikely to diminish.

Regardless of future prices, the Deepsea Challenge will almost certainly remain one of the defining engineering projects of modern Rolex.

A Halo Watch Rather Than an Everyday Watch

The Deepsea Challenge isn't designed to replace the Submariner.

Nor is it intended to become Rolex's most versatile sports model.

Instead, it serves as a halo watch—a reference built to demonstrate the limits of the company's engineering capabilities rather than satisfy the needs of the average buyer.

For that reason, it's one of the easiest Rolex replica watches to admire without necessarily wanting to own.

But for collectors fascinated by extreme engineering, deep-sea exploration, or the technical boundaries of mechanical watchmaking, the Deepsea Challenge occupies a category almost entirely its own.

Factory gem-set Rolex Presidents combine precious metals, hard-stone dials, and hand-selected gemstones with the same engineering standards found throughout the rest of the Rolex catalogue. Unlike many aftermarket diamond watches, these references were designed, assembled, and quality-controlled by Rolex from the beginning, making originality one of their defining characteristics.

For collectors, these watches occupy an unusual space. They are mechanical timepieces, but they're equally appreciated as examples of lapidary craftsmanship, gem-setting, and decorative dial making.

Here are several of the most distinctive references from this niche of the Rolex world.

Why Factory Gem-Set Rolex Watches Matter

Before looking at individual references, it's worth understanding why factory gem-set Rolex models command such attention.

The difference isn't simply that they contain diamonds or colored stones.

Rolex sources gemstones according to exceptionally strict standards for color, clarity, cut, and consistency. The company also manufactures many of its own gold components and performs gem-setting in-house, allowing each stone to integrate seamlessly into the overall design.

Hard-stone dials—including lapis lazuli, malachite, and mother-of-pearl—present another challenge.

Unlike metal dials, natural stone can crack during machining. Each dial must be cut extremely thin while preserving its structural integrity and natural pattern, resulting in relatively low production numbers compared with standard dial variants.

For collectors, originality is particularly important in this segment. Factory documentation, original components, and untouched gem settings generally carry a significant premium over watches that have been modified after leaving Rolex.

Rolex President Ref. 69078 "Pleiades"

18k yellow-gold Rolex President Ref. 69078 with Pleiades diamond dial and emerald-set bezel.

Among vintage gem-set Rolex references, the Ref. 69078 Pleiades stands out for its distinctive dial layout.

Rather than arranging diamonds in traditional hour-marker positions, Rolex scattered them asymmetrically across the champagne dial, creating a composition inspired by the Pleiades star cluster.

The bezel further distinguishes the watch by alternating brilliant-cut diamonds with baguette-cut emeralds, introducing vivid green accents that contrast beautifully against the warmth of yellow gold.

The result is expressive without appearing overly ornate—a balance that has helped the reference remain highly sought after among collectors of vintage high-jewellery Rolex watches.

Rolex President Ref. 69158 with Lapis Lazuli Dial

Rolex President Ref. 69158 featuring a natural lapis lazuli dial.

Few Rolex dial materials are as immediately recognizable as lapis lazuli.

Its rich ultramarine color, often interrupted by natural mineral inclusions, gives every dial a unique appearance. No two examples are completely identical.

Rolex complemented the stone with a pavé diamond center, diamond bezel, and diamond-set lugs, creating strong visual contrast while allowing the lapis itself to remain the focal point.

Hard-stone dials have become increasingly desirable among collectors over the past decade, not simply because they are visually striking, but because natural materials introduce individuality that manufactured dials cannot replicate.

Condition is especially important, however. Because stone dials are fragile, well-preserved examples typically command stronger collector interest.

Rolex President Ref. 69069 in White Gold

18k white-gold Rolex President Ref. 69069 with factory ruby and diamond bezel.

Collectors often associate gem-set Rolex watches with yellow gold, making the white-gold Ref. 69069 particularly distinctive.

The cooler tone of the case shifts attention toward the bezel, where alternating diamonds and rubies create a vivid ring of color around the silver dial.

Compared with yellow gold, white gold offers a more understated form of luxury.

The gemstones remain highly visible, but the precious metal itself is less immediately obvious, giving the watch a quieter presence on the wrist.

For buyers who appreciate factory gem-setting but prefer subtler precious-metal aesthetics, this reference occupies an appealing middle ground.

Rolex President 31 Ref. 278289 with Butterfly Dial

Rolex President 31 Ref. 278289 featuring diamond pavé and mother-of-pearl butterflies.

Some Rolex dials blur the line between watchmaking and decorative art.

The Ref. 278289 is one such example.

Its pavé diamond surface serves as the backdrop for butterfly motifs crafted from natural mother-of-pearl, producing a layered composition that changes dramatically under different lighting conditions.

Mother-of-pearl is especially challenging to work with because each section reflects light differently depending on its natural structure.

Rolex uses these variations intentionally, ensuring the butterflies retain subtle differences in color and iridescence rather than appearing perfectly uniform.

The result feels more artistic than conventional, illustrating the breadth of Rolex's decorative dial expertise.

Rolex President 31 Ref. 278288 with Malachite Dial

Yellow-gold Rolex President Ref. 278288 with natural malachite dial.

Green has become one of the defining colors of contemporary watch collecting, but malachite offers something painted or lacquered dials cannot.

Its flowing natural bands make every dial unique.

Some examples display broad, dramatic striping, while others feature finer, more intricate patterns. Because the stone itself determines the final appearance, collectors often evaluate individual watches rather than treating every example as interchangeable.

Rolex framed the vivid green dial with yellow-gold Roman numerals and a diamond-set bezel, allowing the stone to remain the visual centerpiece.

Among modern hard-stone Rolex dials, malachite continues to attract considerable collector interest because of both its rarity and individuality.

Rolex President Ref. 279458 with Full Pavé Diamond Dial

Some Rolex watches emphasize restraint.

The Ref. 279458 embraces the opposite philosophy.

Virtually every visible section of the dial is set with diamonds, creating continuous reflections as the watch moves through changing light.

Combined with the iconic President bracelet in solid yellow gold and a factory diamond bezel, the watch functions as much as a piece of high jewellery as it does a mechanical timepiece.

Despite its lavish appearance, the craftsmanship remains distinctly Rolex.

Stone placement is exceptionally consistent, and the overall composition avoids the uneven appearance often associated with aftermarket gem-setting.

Rolex President Ref. 179175 in Everose Gold

Everose-gold Rolex President Ref. 179175 with mother-of-pearl and diamond dial.

Rolex introduced Everose gold to address a long-standing challenge with traditional rose gold alloys, which can gradually lose some of their warmth over time.

By incorporating a proprietary alloy formulation, Rolex designed Everose to retain its distinctive color over extended periods of wear.

The Ref. 179175 pairs that warm case material with a natural mother-of-pearl dial set with diamond hour markers.

Unlike painted surfaces, mother-of-pearl continually changes its appearance depending on viewing angle and lighting, revealing subtle pink, green, blue, and silver tones throughout the day.

The combination creates a softer, more contemporary aesthetic than traditional yellow-gold gem-set references.

Collecting Factory Gem-Set Rolex Watches

Unlike standard Datejust or Day-Date models, gem-set references require closer evaluation before purchase.

Collectors generally pay particular attention to:

• Originality. Factory dials, bezels, and gemstones are considerably more desirable than aftermarket modifications.
• Documentation. Original papers, service history, and provenance become increasingly valuable for rare references.
• Condition. Hard-stone dials should be inspected carefully for cracks, repairs, or replacement.
• Gem quality. Factory stones are selected for exceptional consistency, making later replacements easier to identify.

These factors often influence collectability more than the reference number alone.

More Than Luxury Watches

Factory gem-set Rolex Presidents occupy a distinctive place within the brand's history.

Mechanically, they retain the same reliability expected from Rolex. Artistically, they showcase skills rarely associated with sports watches or everyday timepieces: precision gem-setting, hard-stone dial production, and decorative craftsmanship executed at an exceptionally high standard.

For some collectors, the attraction lies in the individuality of natural materials such as malachite or lapis lazuli. Others are drawn to historically unusual creations like the Pleiades dial or to the technical precision of Rolex's factory diamond setting.

Whatever the preference, these watches represent more than precious metals and gemstones. They demonstrate that even a company celebrated for functional tool watches has long been capable of producing objects that belong as much in the world of jewellery and decorative arts as they do in traditional horology.